There are numerous methods for making braided loops for use in fly fishing. Remember, these are the loops that are then connected at the backside of a tapered leader (instead of the loop to loop connection).
The old method for peeling the covering off the fly line using acetone, and then doubling the center back on itself, sewing the center together and covering with Aquasure (or super glue) still works but it has its downsides.
What you need to know is that most of the braided monofilament cores available out there today are rated at 20lb in terms of breaking strain. On the other hand, most braided loops are designed for 30lb strain and that’s where the problem starts.
As such, the best thing you can do is to make your own braided loops. Fortunately, that’s a simple and straightforward process and we’ll show you how to do it right below.
Also Read: How to oil a fishing reel
Braided Loops: How To Make Them Easily
All you require is a huge needle and a few pieces of braided Dacron backing, scissors, and a lighter (or a flame or matches) and some superglue.
Step by step instructions of making a braided loop
Step 1: Use extremely thick interlaced backing off the hardened Dacron type – 20 or 30 lbs
Step 2: Try not to cut the backing yet, however, work with the entire length
Step 3: Make sure that the backing doesn’t unbraid in the process
Step 4: Put a thick needle into the backing application 10 cm. (4″) from the end.
Step 5: The backing is empty, and the needlepoint should be positioned in the middle
Step 6: Thread the shorter part of the backing via the needle eye
Step 7: Secure the formed loop using a pencil
Step 8: Once again Press the needle out via the backing 5 cm. (2″) press down the backing
Step 9 Pull the loose end and the side of the backing and through the hollow middle
Step 10: Pull the loop tightly
Step 11: Remove the needle and cut the backing and leave a little piece (1cm/0.5″) outwardly
Step 12: Burn slightly over the fire and then pull the warm and delicate end into the backing, through expanding the loop.
Step 13: Put one drop of superglue on the backing
Step 14: Prevent the backing from getting to be ‘unbraided’ by putting a needle into the hollow middle and applying light heat.
Step 15: Slice to proper length and thread a tiny bit of silicone tube over the end.
And your loop is ready!
Additional tips for Braided Loops
*Try not to be mean with the interlaced monofilament. For the first couple of times, you make your loops, begin with at least 6 inches of the braid. It’s simpler to deal with, till you understand how simple it is.
*The loop on the back part of the fly line may be more elongated than the front end. However, remember to use a loop-to-loop knit for a quicker and easier fly line change. Ocean anglers tend to make the loop quite long to go a reel through.
*Always Use a dull needle with a huge eye to knit the braid through effectively.
*Make sure you have at least an inch of fly line in the braided center.
*Trim the end of the fly line at a slight edge to enable the ‘inch-worm’ technique for advancing the fly line up through the braided center.
*Use a string bobbin that’s tight on the string’s spool so you can ‘spin’ the bobbin around the line for making the whip wrap up.
*Use good quality Superglue, for example, waterproof and saltwater Zap-A-Gap, safe.
*After the pulling through the loop, adjust it to the smallest size that you are comfortable with before cutting the waste away.
*Use the Superglue sparingly. Use only enough to attach the internal and external centers together without glue sifting through to the loop itself.
*Don’t attach your leader to the braid loop. Always make a loop-to-loop attachment between the loop and the leader.
Putting together two braided loops
The braided loop system has the benefit of being super flexible. You can combine two parts of the fly rig if you have loops on both sections.
Particularly if you need to change leaders, the loops will make the procedure quite easy. Experienced anglers may find the joint excessively hardened or find that it to have a ‘hinge impact’, however for the beginners, that frequently ends up with a tied leader or a huge birds nest, the simplicity of changing a leader is a great advantage.
This joined with homemade hitched leaders, can make the learning process considerably less steep.
Connecting large and small loops
You should use extremely basic large loop connections for between the backings and fly line for convenience. This comprises of two loops – a small one on the fly line and a huge one on the backing. The larger one ought to be huge enough to give the entire reel a chance to go through it, and the small one on the fly line huge enough to allow the double-stitched backing to pass.
Use the knotted loop design for the loop on the backing or simply make a large Surgeon’s loop on it, and use the “circle on a fly line” design for the fly line or another knotted loop as a second choice. Thread the huge loop through the little one and allow the reel to go through the huge loop.
Then, fix the loop tightly and arrange the knot as perfectly as possible. The loops will come effectively apart even after quite a long time of hard use.
Plastic Sleeve vs Whip Finish
Please note that the monofilament knot is whipped to the fly line rather than the plastic that’s commonly found on store-bought loops. Don’t get us wrong. Plastic sleeves function quite well especially when accompanied by a spot of superglue. But even then, the tidiness of the whipped finish is hard to beat.